Fresh

Ah, the tail end of February.  Believe it or not, now’s the time to really start thinking on summer’s food.  It’s the time to purchase a CSA share from a nearby farm, but more on that in a minute.  And it’s fine time to wrap your mind round garden-growing.  More on that in a minute too.  Beyond that, aren’t we just longing to eat the foods of summer by now, anyhow?

First, let’s get to a few juicy bits of food news.  As you know, I’ve been talking up a local website for a while now called theperennialplate.  It’s a site run by local chef, real food advocate and documentarian, Daniel Klein.  Each week he makes a short documentary on a local farm or food, but does so through the back door, so-to-speak.  You’ll have to watch one of his videos to understand, but you’ll only want to watch more, trust me, and you should.  Here’s kudos to Klein and his project and to just getting absorbed into the great, liberal online reader  Huffington Post.

As well, something on the Slow Food page caught my eye this past week.  Michael Pollan, who famously authored The Omnivor’s Dilemma, has put out a call to all to contribute food rules for an expanded version of his successful book Food Rules which came out two years ago or so.  If you missed out on Pollan’s Food Rules, it is a slim book wrapping up all he learned about real and not real food post-The Omnivore’s Dilemma in the way of rules of sustainable eating.  I love that idea of sitting down with your family and/or friends and compiling a new list of food rules you live by and believe are important.  Try it, perhaps you’ll strum up one or two that Pollan can use in his upcoming book.

February means it’s time to imagine that winter has peeled it’s white off your backyard and to begin planning your garden.  (I’ll be carrying on about my garden next month and our possible chicken coop and attempt at keeping chickens this summer.)  However, if you don’t garden, it’s a perfect time to consider getting a CSA share.  A CSA, for those who don’t know, is a type of farm that allows you to purchase a share of their farm and in return you receive a weekly box of produce through their growing season.  It’s a wonderful way of not only directly supporting a local grower but of accessing fresh fruits and vegetables all season.  It’s also a great way for the more adventurous and ambitious to discover new types of vegetables or to experiment with gluts.  I recommend finding a CSA near you by visiting www.localharvest.org or the Land Stewardship Project.  Really, now is the time to purchase your share!

This month I thought I’d highlight another local product I do love very much.  Whole Grain Milling’s hi-lysine cornmeal.  (Actually, you can visit theperennialplate.com for a little tour of WGM’s farm and philosophy; it’s quite wonderful.)  I buy their cornmeal in the bulk section of my local food-coop and you can too.  Let’s try an unusual recipe from the lovely southern cook Edna Lewis:

Corn Pone

Corn Pone was a delicious equivalent of the ash cake and is legendary in our history.  A beautiful poem was written by one of our early great poets, Paul Laurence Dunbar, entitled When Mammy Says de Blessing and de Cone Pone’s Hot.  When there was need for a quick hot snack, we would light the cookstove and stir up some cornmeal and make a number of corn pones, sometimes adding cracklings to make them more interesting, but they were just as delicious plain.  The rather stiff batter would be shaped with both hands, fingers closed, to make a large egg shape—the shape of your hand.  The pones were about 3 inches wide, and were placed an inch apart on a baking sheet.  Baked in a fairly hot oven, when done they were golden brown in color and very crusty outside, which made them more delicious.  We would cut them in half and butter them.

2 cups water-ground white cornmeal

1 teaspoon Royal Baking Powder

½ teaspoon salt

2/3 cup cold water

½ cup milk

1 tablespoon melted lard or butter

Sift the meal, baking powder, and salt into a mixing bowl.  Add the water and milk.  Stir well, add melted fat, and let the mixture rest for 10 minutes.  Then take the batter and shape it into pones by cupping both hands together and patting it into form.  Place each pone upon a baking sheet an inch apart from the others and bake in a preheated 375 degree oven for 15 to 20 minutes—no longer or the bread will dry out.

from Dunbar’s poem:

When de cabbage pot is steamin’
An’ de bacon good an’ fat,
When de chittlins is a-sputter’n’
So ’s to show you whah dey’s at;
Tek away yo’ sody biscuit,
Tek away yo’ cake an’ pie,
Fu’ de glory time is comin’,
A n’ it’s ‘proachin’ mighty nigh,
An’ you want to jump an’ hollah,
Dough you know you ‘d bettah not,
When yo’ mammy says de blessin’
An’ de co’n pone ’s hot.

If you’ve ever taken a class from me or know me at all you know that all cooking and eating I do is dictated by the season.  In this case, it’s winter; I say that just in case you’ve been hibernating in a basement for the past few months or have had the shades severely drawn.  Listen, I feel it’s more and more my sole purpose this time of year to convince fellow Minnesotans that you CAN eat quite locally here in the cold months.  I don’t utter that to be obnoxious or out of that bit in me who craves a challenge, but because there really are a lot of options for seasonal eating now.

Head to your local food co-op this week and as you shuffle round the produce section notice the local cabbages, winter squashes, potatoes, onions, hydroponic lettuces, mushrooms, herbs, and root vegetables (too many to list here, but oh you must grab a few of the Rock Spring carrots, so sweet right now).  And if you find a moment to head to a local indoor farmers market you can grab local dairy, poultry, eggs, meat, and seafood.  Yes, yes, I can grow tired (as do my clients from time to time) of the limitations of the season, but each year it gets easier and I only appreciate what’s to come in spring even more.  (This spring I get to harvest, for the first time, from my asparagus beds and I’m giddy about it.)

My product spotlight of the month is LaBore Farms’ and their delicious hydroponic lettuces and watercress.  They are a small company out of Faribault, MN and provide consistently yummy lettuces all year round.  In case you’re new to the term hydroponic, it is a method of cultivating a crop in a nutrient water solution versus soil.  I’ve flip-flopped over the years on how I feel about hydroponics; it comes down to this for me, I just love dirt!  But I think that some hyrdoponic growing is getting better.  I still will never (except when my toddler begs me at the market, such as last week) purchase a hydroponic tomato, but I do think the clean, crisp taste of lettuces and cucumbers (and even eggplant) farmed this way can be especially refreshing in the winter.  Check out Mississippi Market’s article on this local farm.

If you recall, I’ve begun a new informal, hands-on, intimate class series in my own kitchen, called Home-School.  The idea is to offer small classes based on practical subjects, nearly one-on-one with me, once a month.  Really, it’s a place for me to just have fun and do things on my terms, in my own quarters—a bit rogue.  This is a great gift idea (and I do have lovely gift certificates I can send) or an unusual place to gather a small group of your friends; spread the word!

Yep, we’re at the heart of soup-making season; I thought I’d include a soup recipe here from my Soup Master class, a delicious and versatile minestrone:

Wintertime Minestrone

Serves 4-6

8 oz dried navy or cannellini beans (preferably soaked overnight)

1 bay leaf

few thyme sprigs

kosher salt and pepper

extra virgin olive oil

4 slices smoked pancetta or bacon, chopped

1 large red onion, peeled and finely chopped

2 carrots, peeled and chopped

2 sticks celery, chopped

2 yellow or red potatoes

½ head of fennel

3 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

few sprigs each of rosemary and thyme, leaves stripped

28 oz can whole peeled tomatoes

glass of red wine

½ lb Swiss chard, spinach, or kale, leaves washed and chopped

2 cups chicken, ham, vegetable, or remainder bean stock

2 oz dried macaroni

Parmesan rind, if you have one, plus Parmesan to shred over top to garnish

Rinse your beans and add them to a large saucepan with fresh water to cover by a few inches.  Bring to a boil and then to a simmer and then add the bay leaf and a few thyme sprigs.  Stir your beans regularly; they could take anywhere from 30-60 minutes to cook, depending on how fresh the beans are.  Once they are just tender remove them from the heat and set aside.

While the beans are cooking, make your soffrito.  Heat a splash of olive oil in a heavy soup pot and add your chopped pancetta or bacon, onions, carrots, celery, fennel, potato, garlic, herbs and Parmesan rind if you have it.  Sweat slowly on low-medium heat, with the lid ajar, for around 15-20 minutes until soft but not brown.  Add your canned tomatoes and red wine and simmer for 5-10 minutes.

Now add your greens, stock, and beans.  Add your macaroni, stir and continue to stir until the pasta is cooked.

If you think the soup is looking too thick, add a little more stock to thin it down.  Then taste and season with salt and pepper.

Top this soup with a drizzle of olive oil and a shredding of Parmesan, or you can add a dollop of green pesto.  In the winter I like to make a kale pesto (check out my previous blog entry for this recipe) to top this soup and then omit the greens from the recipe.

This photo was taken in Lanesboro, MN last weekend where my husband and I had a small getaway.  Too bad this dear, sweet old train-car diner wasn’t open, but we did eat well and locally at a nearby cafe called Pedal Pushers in this sleepy, little old-fashioned town.  Lanesboro is worth investigating if you’re feeling simple, slow, and eager to take some quiet walks and bike rides.

But on to other holidays…My mother, always early and eager, asked last week for our Christmas lists.  Besides warm socks, I want what I always want this time of year, a food gift from Zingerman’s.  I’ve rambled on about this mail order food company before.  Hand made and/or hand picked jams, breads, cheeses, meats, chocolates from around the world, all dressed up in clever boxes sent to your doorstep.  Really, you’re sure to be bear-hugged after giving one of their gifts.  (Don’t overlook their Christmas box for Christmas morning…).

I mentioned in October’s post that I would be spotlighting favorite food products or producers each month.  This month I think it’s fitting to recommend Penzeys for spices for your cupboard or for holiday cooking and gifts.  They have wonderful wood box sets of spices and beautiful pepper and salt mills.  All of their spices, extracts, and salts are great, but my favorites are their vanilla extract, cinnamon, Spanish sweet paprika, and their dried oregano.  They also happen to carry boxes of my favorite all-purpose salt, Diamond Crystal Kosher.

One last note before I hand over a cold-weather recipe.  If you haven’t already tuned in to chef Daniel Klein’s perennial plate online, you must take a gander.  I’ve written before on this weekly video journal on eating in Minnesota; it is such a well-done capture of local food growers, artisans, issues, and of what’s available in the way of Minnesota eating.  Two recent videos struck me in particular: his hunting and preparing squirrel and a day on a turkey farm where light is shed on the process of raising and slaughtering turkeys.  Take a look, they are only five minutes or so per film.

Alright on to our November recipe.  Pesto anyone?  Listen, I’ve included a pesto recipe before, and in its appropriate season, summer.  But if you remember that recipe you’ll notice that you can use a wide variety of greens as alternatives to the typical basil.  Here’s a new one for you:

KALE PESTO

You can eat pesto in winter too; just use winter greens and add it to bean soups, eggs, on toast, on grilled chicken or however you like.  (Also, this is really a great way to get your greens!)

1 large bunch kale; 3 tablespoons pine nuts; 1 garlic clove; 3/4-1 cup olive oil; 6 tablespoons finely grated  Parmesan cheese; salt to taste

Once you’ve sliced out the rib of each kale leaf, rinse under water, and blanch it in a pot of boiling water for a few minutes.  Cool the kale down in ice water and gently squeeze out all the water.  Chop the kale coarsely and add it to the bowl of a food processor with the pine nuts and garlic.  Pulse this mix a few times to combine and then slowly add the olive oil slowly as you continue to pulse.  You want to make sure that the pesto is somewhat smooth and well-broken down.

Remove to a bowl and fold in the cheese and season to taste with salt.  (Don’t forget that pesto freezes well; and I encourage you to freeze it in ice cube trays so that you can just take what you need from the freezer.)

Eat well and Be well,

Kristin

I’ve been trying to keep up this fall with all the many provocative food and articles and related hubbub online.  From a proposed soda tax to dreamy food festivals to the new revival in bringing food science to the home kitchen, it’s an exciting and daunting time in the world of food.  Here are a few subject links to whet your appetite:

Clever idea? Proposed soda tax…(http://simplegoodandtasty.com/2010/10/10/will-corn-sugar-sweeten-sales-of-hfcs-and-will-a-soda-tax-sour-them)

Haven’t heard of the Meatless Monday campaign? Then read up…  (http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=129025298)

Let’s bring this festival to Minnesota, more on the Eat Real Festival… http://eatrealfest.com/

I’m really skeptical about  this new, incredibly hyped-up Food Science degree at Harvard, read more about it and tell me what you think… http://www.nytimes.com/2010/10/20/dining/20Harvard.html?_r=1&src=me&ref=homepage

Something I want to begin doing with each monthly blog entry is to highlight a food product or producer.  Not necessarily local, these foods and farms have passed many a test of mine over the years, and so I encourage you to seek them out.  This month’s brand is Bionature, out of Italy.  Really fine pastas (including various grain and gluten-free options), tomato sauces, oils and vinegars.  Their whole wheat pasta line, especially, and their canned and jarred tomato products are superior to others on the shelf.  Eat up!

I thought it appropriate to leave you with a winter squash recipe since this is just the beginning of that season.  Before I get there I want to leave you with a winter squash guide so that you can navigate the many market varieties and go beyond the butternut.  My favorite varieties are red kuri, buttercup, and kabocha, and alright, the ubiquitous butternut.

Smooth Winter Squash Soup with Parsnip, Carrot, and Coconut Milk

Serves 4

3 tablespoons peanut oil; 1 yellow onion, thinly sliced; 1 ginger knob, shredded or minced; 1 lemongrass stalk, outer leaves removed, pale parts finely minced (or the zest of 1 organic lemon); 2 cloves garlic, shredded or minced; 1 tabelspoon ground cumin; 1 teaspoon turmeric; 1 small winter squash (butternut or other), peeled and chopped into 1/2-inch cubes; 2 large carrots, peeled and chopped; 2 parsnips, peeled and chopped; 2 cups chicken or vegetable stock; kosher salt and pepper; 1 15-oz can coconut milk; small bit of cilantro, finely chopped

Heat the peanut oil over medium-high heat in a heavy soup pot or large saucepan.  Add the onion, ginger, lemongrass (or zest), and garlic and saute for few minutes.  Add a good pinch of salt, the cumin and tumeric, and saute and sweat for a few more minutes; you may need to turn your heat down to medium as to not burn your vegetables.

Add your squash, carrot, and parsnip and saute for minute to infuse flavors. Now add just enough of your stock to make a thick mix; roughly, add enough stock to come just to the top of your vegetables.  (Remember that you’re still going to be adding in your coconut milk later to thin the soup out.)  Now bring up the heat and gently simmer the soup until all your vegetables are quite tender.

Puree the soup with a hand blender or in a stand blender until quite smooth. Put the puree back on the heat and slowly stir in your coconut milk until you like the consistency.  Heat through for a moment and check for salt and pepper.  Sprinkle your cilantro on top of each bowl of soup.

Be well and Eat well,

Kristin

I’m ashamed at the gap between my last blog entry and this one.  It appears even more dramatic when summer falls away so quickly and fall seeps its way in, as has happened this year.  How do we apply such fast change?  I’m not ready to cut down the garden and reap so little from my morning harvest, but there’s also that mid-western spirit engrained in me that’s already making soups and braises.  Alright, fall, let’s do this thing.

That’s my daughter, Riley, above.  She’s quickly becoming my sous-chef and takes pleasure in making her own pretend breakfast spreads in her own short, plastic kitchen.  But her favorite thing to do with me in my kitchen, besides stealing produce from the counter basket and taking juicy bites, is to measure flour.  Give her my flour bucket and she could work there all day spooning flour into the 1-cup measure back into the 1/2-cup measure, back and forth, sometimes spooning some onto the passing-by cat.  As well, she never tires of my spice basket, of smelling all the jars, and then building skyscraper towers with them.

But let’s reflect (since I’ve gotten to you so late, that we can no longer call this summer):

Here’s a photo of an August harvest in our garden.  I’m proud to say that my garden’s first year has really been something to brag on.  To brag: I feel it to be true that I am a tomato whisperer.  We grew twenty heirloom tomato plants and they each kept their health and happiness all season.  My herb garden, my prize, is still glad to be around and I am still gathering, for my clients and my own family, bunches of basils, thyme, lavender, sage, marjoram (my favorite), rosemary, chives, and parsley.  The cilantro and dill pooped out a while ago (not to mention all of my peppers and eggplants) but such is life.  Overall, the garden grew and faired well.

Now that it’s late summer into fall, it’s certainly time to keep the soup pot on the stove for supper.  This week it’s smooth butternut squash soup with coconut milk and lemongrass (and don’t forget to shred extra ginger in to perk it up and keep the sniffles away) and a quinoa chowder with greens and feta cheese.   Soup is quite possibly one of my favorite foods because it is genuinely versatile (depending on what’s in season or what’s in your cupboards), and has great potential to be nutritious, economical, filling and warming, and besides that it freezes beautifully.

Speaking of soup.  Now that it’s getting a bit cooler out, I encourage you to head to Lowertown in St. Paul and visit my old kitchen at Tanpopo, where they are famous for their Japanese homestyle noodle soups.   If you’ve never been there before, I suggest the Nabeyaki, a steaming crock of soup (straight from the stovetop) with udon noodles, egg, fish cake, spinach, chicken, and  a single tempura shrimp.  (As well, I just noticed that they have a new happy hour with specials from 5-6pm; don’t forget to order tuna rolls and a draft beer.)

Soup will be on the agenda this fall for my hush-hush rogue cooking classes in my own home.  I’ve begun teaching small-scale, cozy-like courses in my kitchen and they have been fantastic.  In a nutshell, I can only take 4 persons at a time in this intimate setting, but I plan on holding one class per month based on subjects such as soup, salt, eggplant, and more broadly, a forgotten skills course.  Don’t get me started now, but I’m entirely excited and hope you’ll have time to join me for one. I will send out more information on these classes and my thinking behind them with my upcoming fall newsletter.

Here’s a recipe for the week, now that apples are falling.  As a matter-of-fact, I taught this recipe in one of my recent classes.  So delicous, swift to make, and uses what fruit you have on hand.

Caramelized Fruit Skillet Tart

Serves 8

3 ounces (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter

½ cup packed dark brown sugar

3 cups fruit (chopped into 1/2 inch cubes) such as pineapple,

apple, pear, nectarine, mango, banana or any berries

¾ cup all-purpose flour

¾ cup whole wheat flour (or additional all-purpose flour)

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon baking powder

¾ cup white sugar

1 large egg

¾ cup plain, whole-milk yogurt (or buttermilk)

Turn on the oven to 375 degrees and position a rack in the middle.  Melt the butter in a large (10-inch) skillet, with an ovenproof handle, preferably nonstick, over medium heat.  Swirl the butter in the skillet until it turns nut-brown, then pour it into a medium-large bowl.  Without wiping out the skillet, sprinkle the brown sugar evenly over the bottom.  Top with the fruit in an even layer.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, salt, baking soda and baking powder.  Add the white sugar to the browned butter and whisk until thoroughly combined.  Whisk in the egg, then yogurt.  Pour the wet ingredients into the bowl with the dry ones and stir only to combine.

Pour the batter evenly over the fruit in the skillet.  Slide the skillet into the oven and bake about 35 minutes, until the tart is golden brown and springy to the touch at the center.  Remove and let cool 10 minutes.

Invert a plate over the skillet, then, holding the plate and skillet firmly together with towels or pot holders, invert the two in one swift movement.  Remove the skillet, and the tart is ready to serve.

Eat well and Be well,

Kristin